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For Simone Rocha , the physicality and sleepless nights of being a mother to a week-old, born during the production process, influenced the ensuing looks of tulle, lace, and broderie Anglaise. A touching vacillation between serenity and darkness, the highlights included lace-hemmed nightgowns in lilac and white, nursing bras embellished with lavish jewels, PVC bomber jackets with a ruffle tracing a bustier in blood red.

Here, they took on new meaning. One, an outfit she envisioned her future child wearing, one that could be adopted by any expectant parent or fans of saccharine displays. Meanwhile, exaggerated knitwear offers refuge and fastened yarns evoke the natural fluidity of the female form. Elsewhere, the procession is punctuated with loose-fitting dresses for days when one might desire the comfort of a tent-like dress provides.

Key pieces: lingerie-inspired dresses, form-fitting high-waisted trousers. Key shows: Nensi Dojaka, David Koma. For many, October 22 symbolises the reopening of society and, in turn, the return of parties. With the looming return of party season, the sartorial currency of underwear-as-outerwear seems to have a renewed sense of purpose. A precocious talent, Supriya Lele ushered you towards the dancefloor with her daringly draped, twisted silhouettes inspired by 90s and 00s style.

Think about viscose jersey mini-dresses with adjustable straps or oversized sheer shirts, oozing an unmistakable 90s sex appeal. The dynamic duo Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault behind KNWLS toyed with seduction in their figure-accentuating bustiers and lace-up tops complemented by low-rise stretchy trousers and strict tailoring that translated things to the real world.

Elsewhere, you had David Koma , who despite the pandemic-induced penchant for tracksuit bottoms and pyjamas, is selling more party dresses than ever. Will you be tempted by daring bodycon dresses in highlighter shades like fuchsia, chartreuse or slinky slips shimmering with Swarovski crystals, embellished with marabou accents and sheer panels? Key pieces: wool cardigans; weather-proof clothing; slouchy tailoring.

A practitioner of functional fashion, she registers herself in pieces such as relaxed poplin shirts, compact jackets, and Japanese denim twill. Here, alongside Irish linen, gauzy knitwear, and waterproof jackets, they cleverly riffed on a timeless summer wardrobe in humbly understated.

Although fashion offers an abundance of loud moments worth indulging in after two years spent inside, the case for simplicity has never been stronger. To bridge the gap between the lives we lived during lockdown and the reopening of society, think like Molly Goddard. The British designer, known for her tulle creations and intoxicatingly dry sense of humour, was musing about smocked dresses, tracksuit bottoms, grandfather knits, and ballet pumps.

Gowny dresses with busy applique and lacey overlays, even tutu-tulle and embroidered hoisery finished with solid boots offer a sort of Crucible homage. Super fun, anti-minimalism. A dystopian uniform for our mood following a year of upheaval. Mark Fast , a veteran of high end London street wear in particular knitwear lent his prowess to slick combat couture this time.

Bold puffas, bodysuits and sock boots all with iterations of camo seem apt for the season. For his first solo catwalk collection, Steven Stokey Daley worked closely with members of the National Youth Theatre, an institution that he joined after leaving high school in , and used their stories of school, both private and state, to explore education and elitism in Britain.

While it contained references to uniforms - rugby shorts and a suit that references rowing jackets, for example - the collection was a tour de force in sumptuous fabrics - Daley sources everything from the UK, very often using deadstock fabric, as well as upholstery materials - and took the audience on a journey through the schoolground, the sports fields and the dorms.

Rejina Pyo took us swimming, staging her show at the London Aquatics Centre, complete with professional divers. There was a strong note of nostalgia running through the collection, which featured collage prints of photographs taken by Pyo while travelling in New York and Seoul. Mostly, Pyo proved that she still understands exactly what women want to wear, with glorious day dresses, relaxed short suits and elegant, easy-to-wear tailoring.

Working with Magaajyia Silberfeld who produced, co-directed and starred in Terma, the short film made alongside the collection, the clothes themselves include easy-to-wear dresses, comfortable trousers and effortless tops. With styling by Ibrahim Kamara, and a gloriously exuberant set design from Yinka Illori, Labrum was a triumph of culture and creativity on Saturday.

Embodying the label's mantra, 'Designed by an immigrant,' this collection was a homage to Caribbean and African migrants in '70s Britain, weaving together music, politics and community in a display that 'brings history to life'. For this collection, Foday Dumbuya collaborated with the Madam Wokie Skills Development Initiative, an organisation that provides women with practical skills and economic empowerment in Sierra Leone, to create the tie-dye prints in saturated colours.

He also gave new life to hand-drawn prints that depict village life in Sierra Leone, as well as motifs of tribal masks. It was a collection that exuded confidence, sex appeal and a 'libertine spirit': 'And just as you've had the time to take it all in, she's off, leaving little else behind than a rising trail of dust.

X-Pression, Feben's SS22 collection and debut on-schedule presentation, was conceived as 'a concise wardrobe that is celebratory and protective in equal measure' after full spiral of human emotion that has been the past year and a half. This explains why wide-leg trousers created from fused strips of jersey - their wavy silhouette echoing the hair extension packs stocked in the designer's local Afro beauty store - are juxtaposed with shirred-panel tailoring in hot pink and harness silk dresses.

As an accessories label, the handbags naturally took centre stage - and there's plenty to get excited about, from the slender shoulder bags that can be grabbed or carried to its canvas-and-leather totes. Molly Goddard had one thing on her mind when she set about designing her collection for SS baby clothes. The designer was eight month pregnant and, naturally, was thinking about what her future child was going to wear. I enjoyed the repetition in this collection and the familiarity, it is nostalgic and visceral,' she said in the show notes.

The collection was one of their most polished to date, with their signature shirting taking a back seat though still appearing in many alluring iterations to beautifully wearable dresses that will have women queuing around the block whenever they drop.

When designing this collection, Juliette Has a Gun, Yuhan Wang found herself thinking about the vulnerability of women around the world especially when, following the murder of Sarah Everard, Jess Phillips MP read out the names of all the women killed in the previous year during a debate in the Commons, stating, 'Killed women are not vanishingly rare, killed women are common.

We are stronger minded than many men. The lookbook features the likes of Georgia May Jagger and Lily McMenamy surrounded by various maritime objects, with all the best elements from that original offering 23 years ago transposed to make the clothes feel entirely modern. The fact that Westwood is responsible for one of TikTok's viral trends of the past year is testament to the fact that she consistently produces something timeless and, as ever, sustainability is a key factor.

All of the wool used also comes from "regenerative agriculture" farms, in which as much attention is paid to the health of the soil as to the welfare of the sheep. What she presented was a collection that marked her 'sartorial manifesto of womanhood.

Nicholas Daley's dynamic short, Forgotten Fury, brought his last collection, AW21, to life on screen as part of yesterday's digital proceedings. Daley practices karate himself and this film, directed by Pizco, was an ode to the Black martial arts tradition, featuring two stars of the taekwondo world: Lutalo Muhammad and Christian Mcneish. Wonderfully atmospheric, if not slightly humid, it provided the perfect setting for his wet-look models who wore clothes inspired by Annette Kellerman, the legendary synchronised swimmer.

Inspired by vintage postcards, tourist souvenirs, holiday deckchairs and parasols, the collection features an extended size collection for the first time, now ranging from 6 to Bora Aksu, who set his show in a lush and tranquil courtyard just behind Pall Mall, wanted his spring collection to celebrate exuberance and a life lived to the fullest. He was inspired by Mathilde Willink, Dutch socialite and muse to Chinese-Dutch designer Fong Leng, and mixed '70s stylings with the maximalist tailorings of 18th century Europe.

Alice Temperley took, as her muse, the 'woman who trusts and follows her own raw creative soul', citing Agatha Christie's Death on the Nile , one of her most celebrated murder mysteries starring Hercule Poirot, and Maria Schapiro, the famous collage artist as the starting point for her interpretation of the 'forceful feminine id'.

For evidence that a digital show can do 'wow moments' just as well an event staged IRL, don't miss Halpern, whose short film paid homage to the dancers of the Royal Ballet and Birmingham Royal Ballet who, next month after a year on standby, will be performing Kenneth MacMillan's Romeo and Juliet at the Royal Opera House.

Paying homage to their homecoming, Halpern presented a collection that celebrated movement and the physicality of ballet, with flying fringing on a multi-coloured viscose gown worn by Fumi Kaneko, and a fantastical orb-shaped plume dress worn by Celine Gittens.



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